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Name: Gabriele Moroni
Date of birth:
20/09/1987 (Galliate)
Living in:
Novara (Italy)
Nationality: Italian
53 kg
Began Climbing: 1996, in a climbing gym in Novara
student - high school (agricultural studies)
est Onsight (sport climbing): Déversé Satanique 8a+ (Gorge du Loup - France)
Best Flash (sport climbing): 8a+
Hardest Redpoint:
Kriptonite 8b (Sarre - Italy), Le mur des 6clops 8b (St.Léger - France) (both 2nd try)
Best flash (bouldering): Du cotè de seshuan 7c, Supernova 7c (both at Magic Wood - Swiss)
Du cotè de seshuan 7c, Supernova 7c (both at Magic Wood - Swiss)
Du cotè de seshuan 7c, Supernova 7c (both at Magic Wood - Swiss)
Hardest boulder:
Massive attack 8a+ (Magic Wood)
Favorite climbing style:
Everything, from slabs to roofs, better if OS!
Favourite sport climbing crag:
St Leger du Ventoux (Fra)
Favourite bouldering spot: -
Favourite Route:
Alchimista Solitario, 8a (Alagna Valsesia -Italy)
Favourite Boulder
Sofa surfer 8a/a+ Magic Wood (Swiss)
Competition Results:
1st Italian Bouldering Championship 2003, 3rd European Bouldering Championship 2004, Difficulty World Youth World Champion 2002(have a look here)
once only metal and hip-hop now all music!
Favourite drink:
Favourite meal
internet, don't do anything
Gabri's performances are powered by:

Freak PeopleGabriele Moroni hairdresser, the self-made hairstyle!
by Daniel Vecchiato - ©, 22 July 2004© 2004 - All Rights ReservedSuper Freak-Gabri ...just relaxed, nothing to lose, nothing to win, but ...pure enjoyment!
Luckily it doesn't have any trainer: naturally 'mutant'!>> VIDEO <<


Well, lets start from last events! Tell us about the Bouldering European Championship 2004 in Lecco? Did You expect your third place? It was just your second international bouldering comp at an absolut level!
I'm very happy with the result in the Lecco's comp. I really didn't think I'd be on the podium. I was so happy to just be in the final with the best boulderers in the world! I was in good form, and in the final I climbed just like in the other competitions, with no stress, totally relaxed and with nothing to lose, and nothing to win. Luckily all the problems suited my style, with small edges and lots of volumes on not very steep walls and hard slabs. In the end I did four problems and was third. Andy Earl did five and was second, and Daniel Dulac came first with an almost perfect competition, six problems in seven tries. Very impressive climbing!




Did You sleep that night? How did You celebrate?
After the award ceremony I celebrated my third place in a pub with a few climbing friends; Ale, Jenny, Laura and Franz. Thanks guys for support during the comp! That night I slept like any other, but in a wonderful four star hotel. But the real celebration was a few days after the competition, with a trip to Magic Wood with my friend Ale Gandolfo.Ahh…I was forgetting your bouldering pedigree! What do tell us about Marzio Nardi (italian bouldering 'guru')? Is he your trainer??
No, Marzio Nardi is not my trainer. He's "the boss" of the B-Side, the best bouldering gym in north Italy. It's also the association I do the competitions with. Unfortunately, I don't have a trainer; but I'm my own coach like all the strongest climbers in Italy. I have my climbing wall at my grandmother's home and I train on it three or four days a week.It nearly seems like you don't even feel boulders hard! Your approach is of that kind of 'take it easy'. Well, e have never seen you kick the walls or swear during a comp. Is it part of your climbing school?
During the competition I'm always relaxed. Also, if I can't do a problem I don't get angry and start screaming. I'm a quiet person. I don't feel like kicking the wall if he can't complete a problem, like, for example, Jerome Meyer.How did You start climbing?
I started climbing when I was eight, in 1996, at the climbing gym in my town, Novara. I did a basic course and I liked it. Two years later I started climbing seriously and began hard training. Also at this time I did my first competitions. After a few years I decided to train on my wall and not at the gym, as I think this is the best method for me to improve the level of my climbing.Are there several other young ‘mutants’ that train with you?
No, I train alone. I think that in Italy there are not many guys climbing because it is not an attractive sport until you have tried it. Nowadays, boys prefer to play football, or do no sport at all.How has your family taken your vertical passion?
My family is very happy that I climb. They take me to the competitions all the time, and usually they take me to climb on natural rock. Thanks mum and dad!Well, let's go deeper! You always get us stacked both in the difficulty and boulder. What do you prefer?
In competitions, I prefer bouldering that is more fun than difficulty, because you can climb for an hour and you have 6 problems (or twelve in the final), while in difficulty-comp you have one, or at most two routes in the whole competition. On rock, I prefer difficulty and in particular to climb on-sight.

Gabriele Moroni

And what between rock and 'plastic'?
Certainly rock! Climbing on plastic is so boring.Which has been the most important route on rock for you? Why?
I'm very happy to have on-sighted Déversé Satanique ( 8a+) in the Gorge du Loup because it is the best route of the crag, and it's a really nice steep line with lots of big tufas. I'm particularly happy because it was only the fourth time that I climbed on tufa-style climbs, and I found lots of tricks for resting, like toe-and-heel or knee hooks.You are still going to school. What do they say about your climbing passion? What does it happens when You have to leave school for competitions for several days?
All the teachers and pupils know that I climb. They are also my fans. When I'm back at school they want to know how the competition went! The school doesn't have a problem when I'm absent as I always inform them when I'm going to be away.What would you like to do after high school? Would you like to become a pro?
I hope to become a professional climber very soon, as it's a big opportunity for doing something that you like. But I also want to go to university after school.Are you really methodical in your training or do you follow your daily mood? Do you do any particular training?
I only train when I want to, and I don't follow any particular training regime. I only do bouldering or routes, depending on the competition that I'll be doing.Well, let's suppose will give you a flight ticket as gift, where would you like to escape?
Thank you for the gift! I certainly want to go to the US. Perhaps at Hueco Tanks. Maybe I'll go in December. Otherwise, I'll go to Rumney, (that is the Dave Graham's crag) where the routes are perfect for my style.Is there anything you don't like about climbing?
No, nothig.Which climber have you been fascinated the most in the beginning of your vertical activity?
In the beginning, maybe François Legrand, like all those who started climbing when I did. Now, Dave Graham, who climbs in a similar way to me. He's very light and has strong fingers, like me. Among the female climbers, I think Natalija Gros ... don't ask me why!Projects…at least for the summer? Routes, boulders…
I want to do my first 8c and continue to climb well, enjoy myself...and probably color my hair!Well we did a preview about the next hair-color of Gabri, but he didn't wanna tell us which color!!!
Let's see...if you have info, write us!!


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