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  • MoonSchool holds by MoonSchool holds
Bouldering 03 December 2005 - 12:09:30 Posted by Gio      

Gabri Moroni' s Story about Ganymede Takeover

Do you remember what Gabri Moroni did last week??


He repeated and downgraded Ganymede Takeover, a Dave Graham boulder in Ticino.

We asked Gabri his impressions about this boulder with 3 grades:

"Ganymede Takeover is an 8/9 moves boulder, very overhanging, nearly a roof, on tiny crimpy holds.
The start is easy ,then you have 3 hard moves with a heel hook, then a dyno to the lip of the roof.

At the end of the day we went to see this boulder. I had alredy seen some pictures of it, and heard about it on the internet.

Gabriele Moroni su Nagual 8B (Hueco Tanks - USA)
Gabriele Moroni su Nagual (Hueco Thank - USA)

I thought: mmh... cool, let's see how it is... in 30 minutes I was on top... I was very happy, it' s a nice boulder, one of those I like!
Because it's the style of climbing I'm good at, I knew it was possible for me since the first try I did.

I' m not sure about the grade, but talking about it with a friend that is also very strong in this style, (Patricio Munari) 8b and 8b+ seemd a bit exagerated to us.
If I should grade it, I would say it's about 8a+.

But I' m not sure... maybe I' m just fit at the moment!


thanks Gabri!

And stay tuned, because we are bout to come out with the story of an other guy that has repeated this problem and had something to tell us !

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