The new year started pretty well for the Scottish trad master Dave MacLeod
Dave MacLeod on Blindvision - ph: hotaches.com
In fact, despite the poor weather conditions, Dave Macleod made the second ascent of Adrian Berry
's Blind Vision
, E10 7a
, at the Brown's Eliminate area of Froggat (Sheffield - UK).
This route has two main parts. The first is a boulder problem, Slingshot
, 8A (V11)
, and then it carries on on the wall with the rest of the route.
Slingshot has been first top roped by Jerry Moffat
in 1988, and then soloed by Mo Overfield
in 2000. Adrian Barry
has been the first to climb the all thing back in 2003 using, has a protection, a WC Zero 2
Apparently Dave used a different gear to protect the route.
Let's give space to Dave worlds from his blog Davemacleod.blogspot.com
"So here we go once again - another E10 repeat and the same tiresome process of deciding ‘what grade is it in my opinion?' It would be so nice to sidestep the whole shebang. The primary reason being that it always overshadows the important part; the climbing. However, it is important nonetheless and I must give it thought. If you are interested to hear, I'll think aloud right now... (if not I don't blame you!!)
What are the facts I have to go on then?
Blind Vision took me three 1 hour sessions of top roping (curtailed by rain) followed by a lead in less than good visibility. It comprises of a highball (but not exceptionally highball) Font 7c+ or 8a, followed by an E8. But the boulder problem is hard enough to prevent a good proportion of E8 or even a few E9 climbers succeeding on it.
Other feelings... Blind Vision is definitely easier than If Six was Nine (which I have done the moves on during a 30 min session on the way home from Breathless). Its also easier than the Scottish E9s and I'd say it felt like 2 grades easier than Rhapsody. However, its harder than Breathless and Divided Years (but then they are E8s!).So these days I am getting more confused about the difference between the grades at E8 and above. My plan (weather and work permitting) is to try to repeat more existing hard trad soon. So I should do that first and then I'll have a clearer idea of what E9, E10 and E11 mean.
[continues on Davemacleod.blogspot.com
and Davemacleod.blogspot.comMore news on Dave MacLeod:
» More on Rhapsody: E11 7a by Dave MacLeod
» It's officially E11 7a: Direct finish to Requiem by Dave MacLeod
» MacLeod Climbs Direct Finish to Requiem: first E11?
» Dave MacLeod frees Pressure: probably Scotland's hardest
» Dave MacLeod climbs Breathless, E10 7a
» The Scottish Dave MacLeod striking both at home and Frankenjura
» First 8c sport route in Scotland by Dave MacLeod