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  • MoonCypher Pant by MoonCypher Pant
Big Walls 20 September 2006 - 11:52:14 Posted by Freak      

Amba: new route in Kyrgyzstan by the Pustelnik brothers (Adam and Pawel)

It was a while we didn't know were Adam Pustelnik (interview) was!
And now we finally found him in Kyrgyzstan!



pustelnik adam kyrgystan
Adam Pustlenik weaking up in Kyrgystan - ph: Pustelnik archive

adam pustelnik amba wall
Adam Pustelnik posing in front of the Amba route (in red)
During the first three weeks of August, Adam went in the Ak-Su Valley (the Karavshin Region, Kyrgyzstan) as a member of an expedition of the University Mountaineering Club from Łódź (Akademicki Klub Górski w Łodzi).

The members of the club were alone in the valley: no other climbers around!
Supported by great weather conditions, Adam and Paweł Pustelnik managed to open a new route, Amba, on the west face of Ortotyubek (also known as the Central Pyramid or Peak 3850).
To do the 1100m Amba (VI, 7c/c+) the brothers needed 1 day for fixing ropes, 2.5 days for wall action, and 1.5 days for ascending. Amba offers mainly solid and aesthetic climbing.

The majority of the pitches are easy classics (6a to 6b), there are also a few 6c to 7a+ pitches which involve tricky protection and considerable runouts. The most difficult pitch (7c/c+) tackles a series of roofs in the middle of the route.

Additionally, Sławek Cyndecki, Adam and Paweł Pustelnik onsighted the famous Perestroika Crack (VI, 7b, 1000m) at Slesov (also known as the Russian Tower, 4250m). The route was originally freed by French team in 1993 and repeated in a single 28-hour push by Greg Child and Lynn Hill in 1995.

More details and photos on Wspinanie.pl

Route details

» topo

name: Amba
location: Ortotubrk, Ak-Su Valley (the Karavshin Region, Kyrgyzstan)
first ascent: Adam and Paweł Pustelnik, 9-11 August 2006
length: 1100m
pitches: 17
max difficulty: 7c/7c+
description by Paweł Pustelnik: The majority of the route solves a new terrain, yet at some points the route intersects, and on at least one pitch follows, an unidentified aid route. The aid line wasn't mentioned in the topo published by Y. Koshlenko in Desnivel but on our way through the series of roofs, we found old pitons and two belay bolts. While climbing Amba, we tried to leave behind as little fixed protection as possible - we inserted a single belay bolt and on the key pitch through the roofs (7c/c+) we used 3 old bolts as pro. The rest of climbing follows the rules of the clean style.

1350_kirgistan_group_520
From the left: Słwek Cyndecki, Adam Pustelnik, Paweł Pustelnik







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