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  • MoonBoxer Jean by MoonBoxer Jean
Big Walls 11 September 2006 - 11:59:13 Posted by Freak      

Alexander Huber free solo on the south-west face of the Deant du Geant

We already knew that Alex was a specialist in solo ascents!

alexander huber dent du geant free solo
Alexander Huber on the Dent du Geant
free solo
ph: HuberBuam.de

Kommunist, 8b+ free solo VIDEO

» PROFILE: Alexander Huber

In fact in 2004 he did the hardest free solo ascent to date: Kommunist 8b+, at Schleier Wasserfal (video here). He also free soloed the Opportunist 8b in 2003.

This time Alex on the 27th of July did the free solo ascent of the Dent du Geant a 200m route on the Mount Blanc.

Altogether Alexander needed three days for the preparation of route. He first climbed the south face wall with Marius Wiest onsight, one week later continued to prepare it with Guido Unterwurzacher.

The challenge in climbng this route free solo is with security rather than with the pure difficulty or the length of the ascent: the route is really exposed.



The Dent du Géant is one of the most salient summits of the Montblancmassivs.

The 200 meters high south wall of the Dent du Geant was first climbed in 1935 by Burgasser and Leitz and is one of the most beautiful and steepest rock routes of the high summits of the alps.

1327_alex_huber_dent_du_geant_2006_02_520
Alexander Huber on the Dent du Geant free solo - ph: HuberBuam.de

When he free soloed the Kommunist Alexander Huber declared:
"free solo - why?
For me, it is the search for my limits. After the free solo ascent of the 'Opportunist' (8b) I knew that I haven't been coming close to my limits yet. On the other side, I am aware that the time is limited."

In 1992 Alexander becomes with the first ascent of his route Om, 9a, one of the leading sportclimbers and in 1996 he adds to his 5 routes in the french grade 8c+ and 9a with the first ascent of Open air, 9a, another route on top of the world hardest routes.

You can read an interesting profile of Alexander Huber written by Heinz Zak on sportextreme.com.

Source: Climbing.de and HuberBuam.de
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