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  • MoonS7 Mushin Pant by MoonS7 Mushin Pant
Trad Climbing 30 June 2006 - 11:22:10 Posted by Freak      

Cobra crack 5.14 b/c (8c/8c+) freed by Sonnie Trotter: the hardest trad crack

Great exploit for the 27 years old Canadian climber Sonnie Trotter at Squamish!

Sonnie Trotter
ph: Darcy Bloom
Sonnie freed Cobra Crack placing gear on lead during his successful FA. According to sonnie opinion Cobra crack is "the hardest pure crack climb in the world"! reports:

Canada's own Sonnie Trotter has freed one of the most coveted crack testpieces in North America, Squamish's Cobra Crack. It had been attempted by many of the world's hardest climbers, most recently by Swiss crack master Didier Berthod. Trotter tried the route 30-40 times over three years. He says "The rating seems to be falling in around the 5.14b/c (8c/c+) mark. It deserves a variable grade because of it's thin nature. For some, the climb may feel like 5.14a/b, for others the climb may feel like 5.14c/d and on some rare occassions it could very well be impossible. So, for now, it's certainly the hardest pure crack climb in the world. Cobra is 30 m long, with the crux pulling over the lip around the 2/3 mark. It involves huge dynamic throws between one and two finger locks, pain is ever present and the mental crux is overlooking the pain move after move. The redpoint crux comes over the lip on a slippery side pull, the feet are next to nothing and it takes momentum and a huge throw to latch the final edge, at which point you're about 15-20 feet about your last piece of gear; it's really exciting."

So far the hardest crack climb was Greenspit 8b+ (5.14-), in valle dell'Orco (Italy. This route has been freed by the Swiss crack specialist Didier Berthod on the 14th September 2003.

Sonnie Trotter - ph:

Just a great quotation from Sonnie's philosphy:

"Do what you love. Love what you do. Take less. Give more. Never quit. Never follow. Be passionate. Be bold. Be honest. Respect people. Respect the environment. Always bring out the best in your family and friends. Change is the only constant. Fear is an illusion. Attitude is everything."

More about the hardest crack climbs:
» Desperate Splitter: another crack testpiece for Didier Berthod
» Didier Berthod on Greenspit again!
» Didier Berthod & «Greenspit»

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