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  • MoonS7 Mushin Pant by MoonS7 Mushin Pant
Trad Climbing 10 April 2006 - 15:39:15 Posted by Freak      

MacLeod Climbs Direct Finish to Requiem: first E11?

The Scottish Dave MaCleod has climbed the direct finish to Requiem at Dumbarton Rock.

dave macleod requiem

Dave making his original ascent of Requiem

Ph: reports:
"Requiem, established in 1983 by Dave Cubby Cuthbertson was the first F8a+ in the world. He actually led it on trad gear and graded is E7 7a. Current accepted thought is that it is F8a+ or E8 6b on pre-placed wires.

Dave climbed Requiem a number of years ago having taken inspiration from the line on his first ever visit to the imposing crag. Since then it is no secret that he has had his eye on the direct finish, having been on and off it (literally) over the last 2 years.

In fact at the Kendal Film Festival in 2005 Dave gave a slideshow during which he gob-smacked the audience with footage of the 50 foot fall onto trad gear. All in all, prior to the successful ascent Dave took the fall at least ten times...

As for the grade. It's being suggested on various internet forums that E11 may at last have been breached.

MacLeod said recently in the Sunday Herald:
"I've known about the true line of the Requiem crack since I started climbing; it's obvious, in your face. You just climb the crack all the way to the top. I'd tried the moves in 2002 when I had just done the first E9 in Scotland and couldn't even hang on the holds."

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