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  • MoonS7 Mushin Pant by MoonS7 Mushin Pant
Sport Climbing 21 March 2006 - 15:09:28 Posted by Freak      

A Muerte 8c+/9a: first ascent by Richard Simpson

Richard Simpson left UK a couple of weeks ago to start a road trip in Spain!


Richard Simpson on A Muerte

Ph: © Alex Messenger/WildCountry

Richard is now in Siurana were he started getting one 8b flash and one 8a+ flash.

Richard announced that he was working an old project of Daniel Andrada... and here we go with the first ascent of A Muerte, 8c+/9a (Campi qui Pugui Sector - Siurana - Spain).
The line was bolted about 10 years ago, and has seen off substantial efforts from Dani Andrada and has also been tryed by Ramonet Juilian, Iker Pou and possibly Edu marin, all 9A climbers.

» The pictures of richard on A Muerte soon on Moonclimbing.com.

But let's discover more from Richards words:
"The route i climbed is about 20 metres long. It starts with a nasty one finger pocket, on a wall that overhangs about 25 degrees. You climb 10 long moves on pockets up to a bulge (so far about French 8b or 8b+) then straight into a very very long move to the side from a slopey, shit 2 fingered pocket. This leads into another 2 fingered pocket (thank god for my Action Directe training) which then joins with an existing French 8c called El membre, which avoided all the hard climbing of the project by starting more to the left and traversing in.

The joining point is at the bouderey 8c´s crux, from their you make 3 more long moves on pockets, up to a small sharp edge, and a sketchy, slappy rock over to a positive undercut. Here you can rest for about 20 seconds, then climb a techniqual fingerey wall, which is very easy to slip off. You must use 2 very small edges, get your feet really high and slap to a sloper with you heart hanging on the line.
A terryifying final move, thankfully I got out of bed on my lucky side that day. From their, some pleasent easy climbing till the top.

Yippeee. The route is super sustained. The problem for me was that the 5 move crux sequence was about font 8a+ alone, and you must climb a very athletic french 8b to get their with no rest whatsoever. It is essential to have plenty of power in reserve for the crux otherwise you dont stand a chance. But the start quickly saps your power, even when you climb it quickly. However, the style of climbing required suits me very well indeed. Similar to what is required to climb Action Directe. Kill 2 birds comes to mind."

Source: Moonclimbing.com

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More NEWS on Rich Simpson:
* Richard Simpson repeats Careless Torque
* Richard Simpson and his Action Directe: interview
* The pictures of Richard Simpson on Action Directe online NOW
* Unplugged for Richard Simpson
* Richard Simpson repeats Action Direct!!
* Stammina Band/Pump up the Power 8c+/9a for Richard Simpson
* 8b onsight for Richard Simpson
* Richard Simpson getting ready for Action Direct
* Hubble repeated by Richard Simpson!
* Moffat's 'Liquid Amber' repeated by Simpson

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