flashed End of the Affair (E8 6c)
on Curbar (UK) yesterday.UKclimbing.com
reports that End of the Affair, first climbed by Johnny Dawes
in 1986, is generally considered to be one of the easier grit E8s around, and a flashed ascent has been predicted for some time, the final hard move is off-balance, tenuous and powerful.
With cams in a break too low to be of much use, a fall from this point could easily lead to serious injury.
This is probably only the second Gritstone E8 to see a flashed ascent, the other being Countdown to Disaster, also flashed by Pasquill, in 2002. As well as a number of bold grit E7 on-sights, Pasquill is also a very strong boulderer, having climbed V13 at the Buttermilks, with his ascent of Dave Graham's Spectre.
End of the Affair has also been soloed by Ben Heason
and Ben Bransby
and Toby Benham
. Bransby's solo was done in typical nonchalant style whilst out walking his dog. A video of Ben Bransby bouldering in Fontainebleau is available here.
End of the Affair has also been repeated by Lisa Rands
). Climbing this route Lisa became the first woman to climb such grade (E8) on grit.
More about End of the Affair:
* Lisa repeated The End of the Affair (E8)
* Hard Grit Solos without mat or spotters!